It was around 5am when we heard the crew preparing the bonfire and boiling water for the early-morning brew, and at 6, Bibi came around each of the tents filling our water-bins outside for an early-morning wash. Time for a light breakfast of cereal, bread and jam, plenty of tea and coffee, and we were all prepared for our 7am departure. This was to be the regular routine over the following  two weeks - an early-morning game drive starting at 7am. This always meant a 6am call, unless we happened to be moving camp that day when it was half an hour earlier. "Half an hour is nothing" assured Bibi, "half an hour is 

no big deal." But when asked if we could then make it half an hour LATER - it seemed to become one. Bibi endured a little teasing, but all in good fun !! So after the daily early-morning game drive, it was time for a little relaxation at the camp - from 11am onwards usually. Light lunch, time for a shower in the afternoon, and the afternoon/evening game drive prior to our evening meal.  This daily routine was ideal, and nicely balanced - early morning game drives maximised our chances of encounters with animals, as indeed did those of the late afternoon. Sandwiched between we had time to relax, catch up

on diaries and take a light lunch, which was always deliciously prepared by Bibi and the lads, then time for an afternoon siesta for those who wished, and time for a camp bucket-shower. These were always pre-erected by Gee and David, and filled with warm water from the bonfire after lunch - two showers - two, perhaps three buckets of warm water, and all 12 of us were catered for, and very efficient  they were too - just turn on the bucket tap - a quick rinse, turn off, soap, rinse off again - done !!! Similarly, the camp loos were equally efficient. Not everybody takes to  a "long-drop" toilet.

So we had the seat of a "porta-potti" sited over a pre-dug hole, and a rubber bulb-operated flush. What convenience - Perfect !So, despite our status as "wild campers," when it came to comforts we were faring pretty well. Our early-morning game drive into the Nxai Pans brought us a long list of sightings:
Only one elephant this morning, but others included ostrich, bat-eared fox, black-backed jackals, a herd of 50+ springbok, a kori bustard (the world's heaviest flighted bird) secretary bird, goshawk, ghemsbok and a fleeting glance of an African wildcat, All in all, a very good morning.

We arrived back at camp at 10.50 am - to an eagerly awaited cup of tea followed shortly afterwards by a brunch of scrambled eggs, bacon, beans and salad. Time in the afternoon for the customary period of relaxation, bush shower, diary, siesta for some, sun-bathing for others, and before we knew it - yes -time for another game drive. Into the truck for 4pm. It turned out to be quite an eventful drive too, arriving at a herd of elephants at a waterhole with a backdrop of a perfect sunset, we had all the ingredients of a classic shot. It was tempting to linger to take it all in, which we did - but, perhaps, at the expense of witnessing

something straight out of "Big Cat Diary" - We were making our way back in the fading light, when we came across two or three black-backed jackals walking cautiously in our direction. Perhaps that gave a clue to Bibi, I don't know, but he picked up a movement in the darkness. He spotted the head of a cheetah briefly breaking the skyline ahead. As we moved closer we saw a group of four at a fresh impala kill. Bibi had encountered this group of cheetah on earlier trips, knowing them to be a mother and her three cubs, almost fully grown. The light was fading badly, and the only flash I had was the small integral unit

on my digital camera. The cheetah did not appear to be too perturbed at our presence, and with the added illumination of our vehicle's headlights I managed to get a reasonable shot of the scene. It was a great climax following the spectacle of the waterhole at sunset, and Bibi we felt, quite rightly, was pleased with himself, and he earned himself a well-deserved pat on the back from us all.  As we returned to camp, we were greeted by the welcoming sight of the two bonfires glowing amidst the trees. Before too long dinner was set before us - fresh hake, accompanied by cauliflower & rice, followed by fruit and